Miss MacRae - Seamstress, Milliner, and Mantua Maker

Work Dresses

A characteristic of work dresses, the bodice is gathered into a waistband from which a gathered, cartridge pleated, or pleated skirt flows. They are shorter than dresses meant to be worn over large hoops so that the wearer can get close to the fire and do the “work” they have to do. All work dresses have a pocket on one side for those necessities, and usually close with hooks and eyes or buttons down the front. The blue dress in this picture has an interesting sleeve treatment-the sleeve is gathered in at intervals creating a flounced look. However, the sleeve is still gathered at the wrist so it won’t get in the way of working and being active. These work dresses are being worn with white kerchiefs, an apron, and a slat bonnet to keep the sun off.

Maeve's Dress

Meet Miss Maeve, my associate. Here she models a dress that has been remade to be more accurrate. Maeve fully lined the bodice, piped the armseyes and neckline, gave the bodice the more accurrate treatment of pleating, faced the hem of the skirt, added brush-braid, and re-eattached the skirt by gauging it. It was alot of work, but as you can see, it made a stunning yet simple gown.

This workdress is made with a common bodice treatment, the front is yoked with gathers coming off it. I had many opportunities to play with the stripes on this dress! The waistband contains horizontal stripes and the gauging of the skirt was made much easier by the stripes as well. I used a bias band around the yoke and the shoulders of the bodice as well as a wider band around the bottom of the skirt. The sleeves are bishop set into a pointed cuff taken from an original dress in the photo collection of The Graceful Lady. This dress is so comfy, I even wear it to the events 7 hours away! It is pictured with a work apron that has gauging and a sheer corded bonnet.

Stripe Dress

Aprons

(Detail)

Every woman needs several aprons. They protect the dress from dirt and grime, provide a handy surface for wiping hands, and a wool apron can protect against fire. Aprons come in many varieties, some tie around the waist while others button at the back. Some have bibs while other do not. Some are pleated or gauged. Some have ruffles or trim or are of silk and are purely decorative. This particular apron is of madder red cotton and has a tie waistband with gauged skirt and bib.

Work Petticoat

Work Petticoat

Worn over a corded petticoat, these sturdy work petticoats are made of stiff cottons to provide a bell shape even without hoops. Hemmed to ankle length or slightly above and made of colorful fabrics, the skirt of the dress can be pinned up over them for ease of movement during work. Some were also made of old worn skirts from dresses with tucks put in them to shorten and stiffen the fabric. One can even pin up a long dress usually worn over a hoop and be more mobile. The petticoat retains decency while adding skirt volume. I consider a work petticoat as essential as the workdress to be worn over it and always pack mine no matter what I will be doing at an event. These petticoats are also the right length and, when done in linen, suitable for Revolutionary or French and Indian War reenacting.

Corded Petticoat

Made of sturdy cotton with cotton cords, when heavily starched, this petticoat still keeps the bell shape of your skirts as you work in confined quarters. Wear the work petticoat over it so you can pin up long skirts and still maintain ladylike decency.

Wrapper

(back)

Worn as a robe or as a pregnancy dress, this garment buttons completely down the front. The front gathers are controlled by the yolk, which is embellished with cotton bias trim. The coat sleeves are comfy and easy to move in. Just add an apron or belt and underpinnings and you are ready to go! The wrapper is also great for staying period dress before and after-hours in camp.

Light Cotton Plaid

This work dress is made of really light plaid cotton. It’s translucent and therefore cooler in hot weather or working around a hot fire. You can see how the bodice is gathered into the waistband and the lovely gold buttons running down the front. The gathered bodice is comfy to wear. One need not wear a corset to look period correct in a work-dress! The sleeve is a “bishop” sleeve. Much like modern shirt sleeves, it is gathered into a cuff at the wrist. To also make this dress cooler, the lining of the bodice has been cut lower than the dress in a scoop neckline. This provides ventilation as well as modesty in an otherwise see-through dress. This dress is worn with a white collar and cuffs to dress it up.

Burgundy Workdress
with Stripe Apron

(Back)

This was her first dress! Bridget choose this flattering shade of homespun for her very first dress. The bodice is gathered into the waistband and 6 shell buttons close the front. The sleeves are very full, but are gathered into a cuff so they won’t get in the way. Bridget is especially fond of her apron, which is a yellow/crème/burgundy stripe. It was left unfinished at the edge to give it that “used for ages” feel and has a pinner front. It ties in the back and has two pockets for her to put all she needs in. She also wears a kerchief to protect her dress from body oils. During hot days, she can also wet the kerchief, or put ice in it, to help keep cool.

Yellow Work Dress
with Lace Collar

This is a picture of how one can “gussy-up” their work dress. Kenna wears a 90” hoop with her dress. It is not so large that the hemline soars off the ground, but just enough to fluff out her skirts. She has also chosen a gorgeous lace collar and brooch to make the work dress more of a day dress. She has folded the top of her pinner apron down to make the apron just a straight one and to show off the gold buttons of the dress. But she still wears the apron to have an extra pocket, or hanky, handy. The sleeves are gathered into a cuff and she holds a basket. She is obviously ready for shopping!