Miss MacRae - Seamstress, Milliner, and Mantua Maker

Underrepresented at hot summer events is the sheer dress. Made from the lightest of cottons, this sheer dress has a peaches and cream color scheme. The fashion a little old for the civil war, it was inspired by an 1845 fashion plate. It features a fan front bodice, small cap sleeves with two rows of ruffles surmounted by satin ribbon, and detachable bishop sleeves. The bodice is lined with a half-high cotton lining. I find this dress to be extremely light and airy. Worn with a tucked white petticoat it is extremely elegant.

Peach Sheer Dress

Constructed to the highest authenticity standards, this silk dress was made in the postilion style very popular during the war. Diary accounts of upperclass Southerners document the struggle to create up-to-date fashions out of old dresses during the blockade. The bodice is darted with coat sleeves that have been terminated just below the elbow. The back of the sleeve is left open and has a facing of silver silk taffeta. Ruching and bows of silver silk adorn the lower sleeve edge. The postilion at the back is lined in silver silk as well. Hook and eye closures, frothy white undersleeves, and a delicate whitework collar complete this best dress.

Silk Postilion Dress

Plaid Dress

(back)

This daydress is made of a thick cotton that has a feel of wool. A woven plaid, it features a pleated bodice with bishop sleeves ornamented by a simple sleeve cap. The edges of the cap have been piped in black to make them stand out more. This dress is my workhorse and is commonly worn in inclement weather or unpredictable outdoor activities.

Brown Wool Dress

(back)

This beautiful iridescent brown and black tropical weight wool made up wonderfully in this dress! Featuring a velvet-lined sleeve cap and darted bodice, this dress also has a waist treatment commonly seen in CDVs of the time period. The front of the bodice has two points while the back has one point. The skirt is knife-pleated to the bodice. Black glass buttons and white work collar and cuffs on the large coat sleeves make this dress look like it walked out of a period photograph.

Blue Sheer

Made of solid blue lawn, this sheer dress will be worn by my bridesmaid at the wedding. It features a fan front bodice with bishop sleeves. The skirt is ornamented with three large tucks and is attached to the bodice by gauging. I know Bonnie will be nice and cool at the August wedding!

1812 Dress

(back)

Made of light airy cotton with a fleur-de-lis print, this 1812 dress patterned from "masterpieces of costume" features full short sleeves and a gathered bodice. Piping is used extensively to finish the edges. It fastens with four shell buttons up the back. The skirt is gently gathered in the front and then box pleated at the back. There is a slight train and the hem is faced.

Spencer jackets were very popular over the high-waisted Regency styles. This one is made of silver silk taffeta and features a pleated tail at the back. The sleeves are tight and so long they extend over the hand to the knuckle. It fastens with hooks and eyes.

Silver Spencer Jacket

This spencer is made of copper colored changeable silk. It features pleats around the bottom of the waistband and fastens with hooks and eyes. Miss Maeve wears it here with a red sash and a parasol covered with the same silk.

Copper Silk Spencer Jacket and Parasol

This dress took first place at the 150th Manassas reenactment day dress competition. There were over 8,000 reenactors there!

This dress is a copy of an 1841 Godey's fashion plate. It features a spectacular pleated front which flatters small chests. Details such as cartidge pleating and feather stitching abound in this exquisite, but subtle, ensemble. The fabric is a soft, light cotton printed with a large, fern-like pattern typical of the 40's. The skirt is cartidge pleated into the bodice and features an ornamental “growth pleat” near the fully lined hem. The sleeves are cartridge pleated into the armseye resulting in a smocked look. They hang full until the just below the elbow where they are cartridge pleated into a long forearm cuff that has been embellished with burgundy feather stitching. The back side curves are also ornamented with feather stitching as is the neckline and the shoulder. The dress is worn over a bell-shaped hoop and straight-seam corset, both Simplicity patterns. No pattern was used for the dress. The dress is also worn with a burgundy belt closing with a large silver button, and could also be complimented by the Burgundy Bonnet. This is an extremely flattering and comfortable dress to wear and I receive many comments on the details at events. It is my favorite dress.

Fan-Front Dress

Plaid Day Dress

(side)

This elegant plaid dress was recreated from an actual original in my mom's collection. The original was made of black and green plaid silk and so a taffeta with the same pattern was chosen for the fabric. The bodice is darted into a gored skirt which is pleated at the back. The two-piece coat sleeves follow the curvature of the arm. Black velvet ribbons form a "V" at the front and back to accent the shoulders and crochet-covered ball buttons fasten the front. This dress is worn with black hand-made mitts, a hand crocheted hairnet, black velveteen glengarry, and black parasol with long fringe.